ROUEN, une amour!

ROUEN (FR)
Rouen, capital of the northern French region of Normandy, is a port city on the river Seine. Important in the Roman era and Middle Ages, it has Gothic churches, such as Saint-Maclou and Saint-Ouen, and a cobblestoned pedestrian center with medieval half-timbered houses. The skyline is dominated by the spires of Cathédrale Notre-Dame, much-painted by Impressionist Claude Monet.

Rouen is on the Seine river, it is Normandy’s cultural and historic capital, a historic river port where English kings held court in the middle ages, and where Joan of Arc met her end at just 19. There’s a new museum to this French heroine in the city, appropriate given the medieval feel of the place. In the old quarter you will find a lot of sights like the Gros Horloge, an astronomical clock from the 1300s, or the cathedral, once the tallest building in the world.

MY OPINION:
Arriving in the port of Le Havre with about eight hours until my ship left for Dover, I thought I’d better spend that time frame. And quite by accident I said I was going to visit the city of Rouen. I fell in love with the city at first sight. First the river appeared with the sailing ships that participated in the legendary Armada, and then I found a city of those that I like. With a compact center that “hates” the cars and is given over to pedestrians. With cafes and small tables in the squares and beautiful shops decorating the small narrow sidewalks.

My first surprise came when I found that in the Old Market Square was the place where Joan of Arc had burned. The second and biggest surprise was also what made me immediately feel my connection with this city, so inside the city’s impressive cathedral, I found the tomb of Richard the Lionheart. Who is he? Richard the Lionheart was king of England who, returning from the Holy Land during the time of the Crusades, found himself in my city, Limassol. And in the Limassol’s Castle on May 12, 1191 he married Berengaria of Navarre.

That is, the King who was married in my city, I found him resting there in the cathedral of Rouen. Well, that was something. And that was also something that made me say that one day I will return. If you ever find yourself in Normandy, look for Rouen. But don’t make my mistake. A weekend in this city is not enough, but it is enough to make you fall in love with Rouen.

ROUEN’s HISTORY:
Historically the ancient city of Rouen was one of the largest and most prosperous cities of medieval Europe. During the 10th century, Rouen became the capital of the Duchy of Normandy and the residence of the dukes until William the Conqueror established his residence at Caen.  During the Hundred Years’ War in the 15th century, Rouen played an important part in the history of France. In 1419, the city and the surrounding regions were conquered by Henry V of England of the House of the Plantagenets. In the Middle Ages it was home to the Anglo-Norman dynasties which ruled large parts of France and England from the 11th to the 15th centuries. It was in Rouen in 1431 that the English burnt Joan of Arc to death and the city was seized by King Charles VII in 1449 and returned to French control.

During the Franco-Prussian War of 1870, Rouen was occupied by the Prussians. Throughout the First World War the British used Rouen as a supply base and there were many military hospitals here. The city was heavily damaged during World War II and in June 1940 the area between Notre-Dame Cathedral and the Seine river burned for 48 hours because the Germans refused firemen access to extinguish it. More damage occurred during the Battle of Normandy which ended on the left Seine bank of Rouen with the destruction of several German regiments and many significant buildings, including parts of the cathedral.  During the German occupation, the German Navy had its headquarters in a château which is now the Rouen Business School.

MUST SEE – Notre Dame Cathedral
Rouen’s Gothic Notre Dame Cathedral (La Cathédral de Rouen) is a stunning building dating back to the 4th century with an interesting mixture of various architectural styles including a new spire built in the 19th Century which briefly qualified it as the tallest building in the world.    The cathedral was the subject of a series of paintings by the Impressionist painter Claude Monet, some of which are exhibited at the Musée d’Orsay in Paris and in the summer after dark the city puts on a Son et Lumière show projecting some of Monet’s cathedral paintings onto the façade of the building. It is famously known for its Tour de Beurre (Butter Tower) and for the tomb of Richard the Lionheart which contains his heart. Gustave Flaubert was inspired by the stained glass windows of St. Julian and of Salome which are particularly beautiful.

PLACES TO VISIT:
1. Église Jeanne d’Arc
Église Jeanne d’Arc is situated in the Place du Vieux Marché where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake and a 65ft high cross marks the spot. The modern church is built in a spiral shape to resemble the stakes, with a fish-scale exterior and beautiful XVI century stained glass windows. Her ashes were thrown in the Seine so people would forget her, however, she was made Doctor of the Catholic Church and Patron Saint of France – all at the tender age of nineteen.

2. Rue du Gros Horloge
Rouen’s main street, Rue du Gros Horloge, runs from the Cathédral Notre Dame to the Vieux Marché which is still used as the market square and from Tuesday to Saturday vegetables, fruit and flowers are sold until 12.30 pm.  The Gros Horloge is an astronomical clock dating back to the 16th century in a Gothic belfry with one-handed medieval clocks on each side. Climb to the top for a fantastic view of the city.

3. Art collections 
Rouen has some outstanding art collections amongst which the Fine Arts Museum features the second most important collection of Impressionist works in France.  The Musée des Beaux-Arts de Rouen was founded in 1801 by Napoleon 1. Its current building was built between 1880 and 1888 and was completely renovated in 1994. This prestigious museum has a unique collection of works by Caravaggio, Rubens, Modigliani, Pissarro, Renoir, Sisley and several by Monet. There is also a splendid collection of faïence and porcelain for which Rouen was renowned during the 16th to 18th centuries.

4. The Palais de Justice
The Palais de Justice (Law Courts) were very badly damaged at the end of World War II but have now been restored to their early 16th Gothic glory though there is still evidence of bullet holes in the 19th century western porch. The courtyard is especially interesting with gargoyles and statuary and at the eastern end is the Monument Juif (Jewish Monument). This is the oldest Jewish structure in France and the only reminder of Rouen’s medieval Jewish community.

#travellingisaknowledge
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